Nine Years in Norway

An American's Reflections

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created by Cindi at nordic-pine designs

paintings and photographs – Lysekloster in the 19th century

October 23, 2014 by Cindi 9 Comments

For this “paintings and photographs” comparison I’m sharing my favorite Norwegian painter, Johan Christian Dahl, again. With today’s painting, he shows a perspective of my exact part of the world.

The name of this painting, View of Lysekloster near Bergen, is a bit misleading. It doesn’t show the cloisters (see my post here for that); rather, it’s of the farmland next to the ruins, and its perspective of this area as seen from the farm looking down towards Lysefjorden.

The landscape depicted in this 19th century painting between the inlet and fjord is now full of houses, and the trees have grown and block much of the view where the contemplative woman is sitting. Lysøen is visible in the fjord, although Ole Bull’s Villa hasn’t been built there yet. Beyond Lysøen is the area we see when looking out our windows, beyond THAT is where we took an “unexpected discoveries” walk, and even further out are the islands that dot this part of the world leading out to the North/Norwegian Sea.

Lysekloster and Dahl

Johan Christian Dahl
Visning av Lysekloster nær Bergen
(View of Lysekloster near Bergen)
Source

 

My walk last week was to try and get to this area and capture a 21st century perspective of this view, but once on the journey I realized that the hiking path turned to the right of the scene in the painting, and with the trees that have grown (and not wanting to walk on someone’s property) I can’t get this specific angle. But I do have several images to share, and — bonus! — it’s the right time of the year; I’m pleased with how the colors of the landscape and the cloudy/hazy sunshine of Dahl’s painting and my camera’s views are similar. What was frustrating, though, is the position of the sun; the reality at this time of year is it was in my viewfinder as I looked towards Lysefjorden. Dahl could work around that a bit better with his paintbrush and talent!

Looking up towards the tree-covered pasture area where Dahl’s woman was sitting two centuries ago

Lysekloster and Dahl

 

Looking down towards the fjord from the perspective of the right of the painting

Lysekloster and Dahl

 

Looking at more of the farm buildings from the perspective of the left of the painting

Lysekloster and Dahl

 

Looking down at the inlet and out towards Lysøen

Lysekloster and Dahl

 

Missing in the painting are the swans in the inlet. Do the contented goats in the field make up for them … even if they’re not singing?

(Here is where the perspective of Dahl’s painting is located on the map.)

Filed Under: Norway, Os Tagged With: Johan Christian Dahl, Lysekloster, Lysøen, nature, paintings

inside Ole Bull’s Lysøen villa

September 28, 2014 by Cindi 25 Comments

Two weeks ago I visited Lysøen for the first time to enjoy a concert in Ole Bull’s Lysøen villa. Before the concert I walked around outside, savoring the views. The made-made landscaping and nature-made wildness combine to create something very intriguing, don’t they?

After the concert we had the chance to take a short tour. It was fascinating! I’ve read about the inside of his villa, but experiencing it — especially after living across the fjord from Lysøen for a year and a half now — brought Ole Bull’s music alive for me in ways my first concert inside his home on Osterøy couldn’t.

Info from the Lysøen website:

Ole Bull’s house on Lysøen was constructed in the years 1872-73, and is quite unique in Norwegian architectural history. His “little Alhambra,” as he called it, is considered a high point of Norwegian historicism. With its onion domes and exotic ornamentals both exteriorly and inside the high ceiling of the music hall – all assiduously carved out of Norwegian pine – the villa emerges like a dream of a blue fairytale castle. The villa is open for guided tours. The tour takes you through the music hall, Ole Bull’s bedroom, the ancestors’ gallery, and the sitting rooms below ground … Welcome to Lysøen – where culture meets nature!

Historical facts below are all my words and interpretation, based on the tour and conversations with the tour guides; any mistakes are my own. (Also, much to my delight and surprise, I recognized the announcer for the concert, and also one of the tour guides, as a member of my very first Norwegian language class seven years ago. Det var hyggelig å se deg, Masha!)

The music hall, where the concert was held, was towering and intimate at the same time. Ceilings with ornamental decorations were both high and cozy, built with Norwegian pine trees from the island.

(Click on an image to open the carousel gallery.)

September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa

 

During the concert I sat next to an intriguing sideboard. The tour gave me a little history of that piece: Ole Bull had a special piano constructed, different than any others before or since. It was very expensive. And after two concerts, when it was time to re-tune the piano, it was discovered why one like it had never been envisioned or built before … it wasn’t able to be tuned! And so the very expensive piano was useless. He had it dismantled, and made a beautiful sideboard out of the wood. I had sat next to a piece of music history, with a photo of the original piano part of the display.

September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa

 

I enjoyed looking more closely at the instruments. Some were behind glass, others were out for a more detailed look, and one — his granddaughter’s piano — is used for the concerts. (Close-ups of two of his violins are here, along with observations from the artist Peter Sheppard Skærved.)

September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa

 

Other intriguing decorations and portraits from that era are displayed, as well as a painting by Theodor Søvig depicting Ole Bull’s funeral procession by ship from Lysøen to Bergen on August 23, 1880 (a 1978 gift to Lysøen by Vivi Mowinckel).

September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa

 

I’ve always found photos of the flag displayed inside the villa provacative, since it combines the Norwegian and US flags. What is its history? I knew that Ole Bull had spent a great deal of time in the US. At that time, Norway was not an independent country; any Norwegian flag had to have Sweden’s as part of it too. The New York Philharmonic Society presented Ole Bull with this unique flag created just for him … a thumbing of the nose towards Sweden, perhaps? 😉

September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa

 

I see the onion dome every day from my windows; it was interesting to look up to the inside of that tower!

September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa

 

I also enjoyed looking out the windows with their German stained glass … and, from the front windows, seeing our home sitting on top of the mountain across the fjord.

September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa
September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa

 

As a flutist, it’s a little surreal to live so close to this charismatic composer and violinist’s home — Ole Bull, who had such a connection to both the countries that I call home, and who found his musical inspiration in his culture and surroundings.

September 14, 2014 - inside Ole Bull's villa

Yes, I’m inspired too.

Filed Under: Norway, Os Tagged With: history, Lysekloster, Lysøen, music, Ole Bull

Ole Bull, music, and Lysøen

September 21, 2014 by Cindi 17 Comments

I’ve shared highlights of Ole Bull’s life before, as well as memories of my first concert in Norway back in 2006 at his summer home on Osterøy. But I see Ole Bull’s Lysøen villa every time I look out my windows …

May 22, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen villa

… and for two summers now, from my perspective 100 meters above the fjord, I’ve watched the boat shuttle go faithfully back and forth taking tourists, hikers, and concert goers to the island …

May 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen shuttle

May 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen shuttle

… and last weekend, finally!, I visited the island for music and a closer look. I’ve spent so much time gazing out my windows at our amazing view that it was a little surreal to be gazing up at our place.

From the Bergen Guide’s website:

The beautiful and extraordinary villa on Lysøen (the Island of Light) was built for the Norwegian violin-virtuoso Ole Bull in 1873. Ole Bull’s charismatic personality and musical excellence had a great influence on contemporary artists.

He spent his summers relaxing on the isle of Lysøen, and often invited fellow artists and musicians. Ole Bull also transformed his 175 acre island property into a fairy-tale kingdom by having romantic paths (approx. 13 km.), ponds and gazebos made by planting exotic trees and bushes in the native pine forest. Ole Bull died on his island in 1880.

In 1973 his granddaughter Mrs. Sylvea Bull Curtis of Connecticut donated the villa and all its contents to the Society for the Preservation of Norwegian Ancient Monuments.

I took the short seven minute journey across the Lysefjord and, once arriving at the island, sat for a moment taking it all in. The sunlight was very bright, making it difficult to see our apartment up on top of the hill opposite my seat.

September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen

 

Walking the path next to the swimming area towards the villa, I enjoyed seeing it from its side view.

September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen

 

Once up next to it, it seemed even larger than I expected. I walked around, taking a few photos; the sunlight was so bright, though, that the blue appears washed out.

September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen

 

As I was walking around the villa, I stopped to watch the boat continuing its round trip journey bringing others to the island, visited the monument to Ole Bull’s granddaughter who donated this wonderful place to Norway, gazed across the fjord’s inlet to the old farm, and walked up the path just behind the villa to sit and experience a little nature and peacefulness … while my eyes kept looking back across the fjord towards our place.

September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen

 

And then it was time for the concert!

September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen

Music of Balakirev, Ole Bull, Zimbalist, Paganini, and Piazzolla. Just as my first time experiencing music in such an intimate setting, I sat in the music hall of the home that a famous Norwegian composer built, with views of the country that inspired his music visible through the windows. Except this time … I belonged; I could see our apartment across the fjord, and wondered how many times I’d looked at the villa while other concerts were going on inside.

After the concert I took a short guided tour; I’ll share those photos and thoughts next time.

With the last boat’s departure time of 4:30 pm approaching, I reluctantly began my way back to the dock. Seeing the number of people waiting I purposely hung back, and was rewarded with a too-full boat so was able to stay and absorb the surroundings for another round. The villa, the flagpole, our house, a small wooden boat anchored and then being rowed, the shallow area that is filled with children and families swimming during the hot days, tiny fish swimming around the dock, the shuttle boat returning for us, and the short journey back to land …

September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen
September 14, 2014 - Ole Bull's Lysøen

… it was magic!
 
(Here is where Ole Bull’s villa on Lysøen is located on the map.)

Filed Under: Norway, Os Tagged With: boats/ships, history, Lysekloster, Lysøen, music, nature, Ole Bull, statue

Wordless Wednesday: Norwegian pines on Lysøen

September 17, 2014 by Cindi 34 Comments

September 14, 2014 - Norwegian pines on Lysøen

Filed Under: Norway, Os Tagged With: Lysekloster, Lysøen, nature, photography, sunshine, wordless wednesday

From my Archives: Philadelphia

July 4, 2014 by Cindi 12 Comments

This week’s “Flashback Friday” isn’t expat related. It’s America’s Independence Day! So I thought I’d celebrate with re-visiting a post that has two photos from a 1988 trip to Philadelphia of The Liberty Bell and Independence Hall (with my young daughters and their Dad featured prominently, of course!)

But first, a short quote and a current photo: today, as “on every Fourth of July, at 2pm Eastern time, children who are descendants of Declaration signers symbolically tap the Liberty Bell 13 times while bells across the nation also ring 13 times in honor of the patriots from the original 13 states” (from the Independence Hall Association — please visit that link to read more of my country’s history).

July 4, 2014

July 4, 2014
Happy Birthday, America!
Your flag is flying proudly over the fjord and Lysøen here in Lysekloster

Philadelphia
April 2, 2013

A 1988 trip to Philadelphia when the girls were small, visiting the tourist areas and feeling a part of U.S. history.

[Read more]

Filed Under: Norway, Os, Pennsylvania, United States Tagged With: archives, family memories, fjords, history, Lysekloster, Lysøen

Contrasts: Mother Nature and Norway

June 30, 2014 by Cindi 22 Comments

Life is full of contrasts, and Michelle challenges us to show that: Light and dark, tall and short, happy and sad — this week, share a shot that captures a contrast.

There are so many directions I could run with this one … but I decided on literal examples of the changing look of the views outside our apartment.

Remember January’s full moon — also known as a Wolf Moon? The timing was just right for me to capture shots of both the moon rising in the northeast to the right of our front doors at the same time the sun was setting in the southwest to the left of our doors; these photos were taken about 30 seconds apart at 5:24 pm on January 14, 2014:

January 14, 2014 - Lysekloster, Norway

Such a contrast of heavenly bodies and the colors they create!

 

Another contrast in views I captured was the difference between a lightly iced- and snow- covered fjord, farm, and Ole Bull‘s Villa on Lysøen in January 2014, and the same views in the delightful late spring/early summer sunshine of June 2014:

winter and spring 2014 - Lysøen

(Here is another favorite view of the island of Lysøen — with its smooth fjord waters, it’s an additional image showing contrast.)

 

And finally, a specific image of the weather contrast between two separate cloud bursts out towards Sotra and the North Sea, with blue sky, sunny tops of clouds, and the sun’s reflection on our neighbor’s house providing an engaging contrast in this June 28th photo:

June 28, 2014 - 4:00 pm

To the right was a powerful thunderstorm bearing down on us, which contrasts with those blue skies too — but I thought this one image was much more compelling.

 

What contrasts do you observe in your life? If you’re participating in this challenge, did you go in a figurative or literal interpretation?

Filed Under: Norway, Os Tagged With: Lysekloster, Lysøen, moon, North Sea/Norwegian Sea, photography, postaday, rain, Sotra, sunset, weekly photo challenge

Wordless Wednesday: morning fjord reflections (close-up)

May 28, 2014 by Cindi 19 Comments

May 27, 2014 - 11:19 am

Filed Under: Norway, Os Tagged With: fjords, Lysekloster, Lysøen, photography, reflections, wordless wednesday

Wordless Wednesday: morning fjord reflections

May 21, 2014 by Cindi 25 Comments

April 27, 2014 - Lysøen reflections

Filed Under: Norway, Os Tagged With: fjords, Lysekloster, Lysøen, photography, reflections, wordless wednesday

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