Nine Years in Norway

An American's Reflections

an Oslo Saturday

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Hello! It is Saturday. There is coffee to start the day – strong, hot, a little milk and sugar for this American. And then a walk to Meny, the local grocery store.

But first we stop at the local market. Not the market that is in Jan’s apartment building – that is like a small grocery store, and has a fairly wide variety (but limited selection) of many food and household items. The aisles are so narrow it is difficult to squeeze by other people. It is good to go there to pick up a few things for a weekday dinner, but when there is more time we like to go to other types of markets.

Today we walk to a larger grocery store (but still small by U.S. comparison – and as I walk those aisles, I wonder again at the excess that we as Americans expect in our shopping experience).

But first – on the way to this grocery store is a market owned by a Kurdish family, and we stop there to see what fresh vegetables and fruits are in season, available, and call to us for our dinner tonight. The plan is to stop there on our way back to the apartment, as it would be silly to carry our choices from this market up to the grocery store, and then back home again.

We talk with the owner a bit, who of course knows Jan after their nine years of association. Although he doesn’t speak English, the owner is very animated in his greeting and I understand his sincere warmth quite well. And as we exchange our smiling non-verbal “hello,” another customer who speaks English asks me where I am from. And when I say “Maryland,” I hear a gasp from the street (meaning, just on the other side of the tomatoes from where I am standing), and I turn to see a young woman smiling at me and saying “So am I!! What city are you from?” It turns out she is from a community about thirty minutes from my home. She moved to Oslo in December to join her Norwegian husband. In just a few minutes of conversation she gives me so much wonderful information. It is a delightful exchange.

And then Jan and I continue to the grocery store, walking slowly and savoring the pleasant Oslo morning. We pick up the ingredients for the American dinner I am going to cook for him, improvising a bit when I can’t find specific items. We carry our purchases back home, stopping at the Kurdish market to get our fresh vegetables and fruits.

As we walk, Jan shares with me a little of what he knows about the Kurdish man who owns the shop. When he first bought his apartment and got to know this market, it was new and the owner had recently immigrated to Oslo. Although Jan doesn’t know the details, this man had been imprisoned and tortured by the Turks. He had scars on his face and teeth knocked out – physical evidence of what he had experienced … and then as now, his positive and warm outlook. Obviously a man whose spirit and warmth cannot be broken. His shop has grown and prospered over the years when other neighborhood markets have failed, and from my conversation with Jan and interaction with this man, I feel the attention to his customers and their needs is obviously a reason. During the Oslo winters he stays open, but admitted to Jan that he barely breaks even; he’s open to serve his customers, and when the weather warms up and he can display his delicious produce and flowers outside again, then it is his good time. That carries him through the winters. We bought a few items from him that might have been available for a bit less at the grocery store. That felt so right to this American who is used to getting everything I need at the nearest large discounted store.

And then, our errands complete and groceries put away, we hop in a taxi and head to downtown Oslo for a light lunch accompanied by a live jazz band, and then a couple of drinks at Muddy Waters with live blues providing a musical backdrop. Oslo bar and restaurant storefronts open so that the street, sidewalk, and front of the establishment all flow together into one energetic street party. Norwegians truly do relish, enjoy, and savor every last drop of the sunshine and fresh air that they can, and I sure am enjoying being a part of it!!

random thoughts

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  • I have never seen sky the shade of Norway’s before. No pollution to add to the color, just the pure air. Not a deep blue, but more pale, almost transparent and translucent. Mix it with the fluffy clouds that form over the mountains and you see something very unique.
  • I MISS MY AMERICAN GARBAGE DISPOSAL!!
  • Yes, the World Cup is going on during the last weeks of my time here, but aside from that, football/soccer is everywhere. The energy from youth and young adults playing the game in every open space is infectious.
  • Norwegian woman are beautiful. And not just outwardly; there is something about the inner peace and strength in the women I have met and in the women I see that I respect.
  • Norwegian TV: nothing is voice-over translated. English programs have Norwegian subtitles. It’s very interesting to read the Norwegian words and listen to my language.
  • On a hot afternoon, Corona Beer, cold in the bottle (with lime of course), tastes just as good in Norway as it does in Ellicott City, Maryland at Jillys.
  • Tiny Norwegian-produced electric cars – smaller than Cooper Minis – are popular. They seat two people, and are very practical for parking and driving, at least in Oslo. They can park sideways in the space of two motorcycles!
  • Big Hummers are just as obscene here as I find them in Maryland.
  • Public transportation is readily available. I knew to expect it in the cities, but bus stops are evident in the more remote areas between Oslo and Bergen that we traveled through, and Jan says they are throughout Norway. Amazing.
  • This far south in Norway doesn’t give us a midnight sun, but the longest day of the year is approaching and the nights are very short. Dusk seems to last for hours, and I am not sure it ever gets completely dark.
  • The fresh vegetables are the tastiest I’ve experienced.
  • The Norwegian language has an appealing melody to it.
  • All Americans have heard or experienced inline skating. Have you heard of inline (cross-country) skiing? What a workout!!
  • Roundabouts, when navigated properly, are the answer to traffic congestion. Not the huge “circles” that I have driven through in my area of the world, but smaller ones that eliminate the need for stop signs, and even for many traffic lights.
  • The nozzles at the gas stations in Norway do not “capture” the fumes as the ones in the U.S. do. In this land of clear air, pure water, and healthy athleticism, the overwhelmingly strong odor of gas fumes as you pump your gas is an ironic twist to everyday life.
  • Norwegian yogurt. Absolute heaven. No more needs to be said.
  • So many people really DO speak English; I am able to shop and converse with others quite easily.
  • Whether it is Berlin, Germany in 1983 (with my Army Band performing it live), or Oslo, Norway in 2006 (watching the US Soccer team start their play against Italy in the World Cup), the National Anthem gives me goosebumps when I hear it performed in another country.

an Oslo city apartment building, and a typical Norwegian afternoon

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Today was another day in the 80’s (of course I mean Fahrenheit). Where is the cool Norwegian weather I expected to find??!! I did not pack the proper clothing for this!

There are many places Jan wants to show me here in Oslo, but we decided to take it easy today. His ankle is still causing a lot of pain (he severely broke it on February 13th; after two surgeries he finally had the cast off in early May, this Monday he will have the bolts taken out, and then we’ll see how the pain improves). So today we did a little laundry, a little cleaning in his apartment, and then headed down to Otto’s.

Otto’s is a unique, yet common, bar. But first I have to explain the area here around Jan’s apartment, and his building and rooms. Those of you who are experienced in city life will understand immediately, but for everyone else (LIKE ME) I hope I can describe it adequately.

Jan’s apartment … flat … condo … whatever you want to call a set of rooms in a building full of other similar rooms that you purchase and live in … is situated a couple of city blocks from the American Embassy. (And can I say that is the ugliest building I have seen; what were we thinking when we built something like that amidst the architecture of this beautiful area of Oslo??)

But back to Jan’s apartment ….

Jan's Oslo apartment

Picture a small courtyard surrounded by four stories of windows. But saying “surrounded” doesn’t describe it either … three sides surround “Jan’s area” in a sort of triangle, and then the fourth is another courtyard a few steps higher, with a longer, more narrow courtyard. A very tall tree (in fact, one of the tallest Rowan trees in Norway!) grows in a 20′ by 30′ dirt section. Heavy old stone paving forms the courtyard ground. A couple of community barbecue grills, flower pots (including a wheelbarrow with strawberries planted in it), picnic tables, and benches are placed in strategic areas. A wooden fence divides the courtyard, as the community that surrounds the courtyard area is really two separate apartment complexes and a small hotel. The entry to the courtyard is at street level, through several different locked doors at the ground level, and from there you can enter the locked stairways that lead to the four (or more) apartments off of each.

Jan’s apartment is on the third floor in his building. Built in 1895, it is considered a fairly new building by Norwegian (and European) standards. The stairs, woodwork, and windows are gleaming, but show their age and slant a little. There are nine steps each between the ground, first, and second floors, but after that there are ten (you notice details like that when you are carrying heavy luggage, groceries, or just a backpack up them!).

Jan’s apartment is cozy, open, and airy. The ceilings are about twelve feet, and the “border” is an ornamented plaster-type relief.

ornamented plaster-type relief

ornamented plaster-type relief

There are also elaborate ornamented circular reliefs in the center of the living room and bedroom.

ornamented plaster-type relief

Crystal lamps with candles used to be hung from them. His apartment has wooden floors, walls full of artwork, and bookcases that hold his many books and ceramics and statues. A tall window in the kitchen overlooks the courtyard, and the smaller/higher bathroom window also opens to the courtyard. There are no screens; depending what time of day I take a shower, I have opened the window with privacy and had the full sun shining on me. The living room and bedroom are separated by glass doors, and each room has tall windows overlooking the street below. It is a side street so traffic isn’t heavy, but the sound of cars passing in the bright nights here in this part of the world has taken getting used to. And it has taken some time to get used to looking into OTHER apartment windows just at eye level across the street or courtyard, but that is my suburban girl vs city girl impression! Across the street and to the left is a raised recreation area, with youth and young men practicing their “fotball” moves (that’s “soccer” to us Americans). Jan also says they play hockey in the summer with inline skates and in the winter with ice skates. Just behind this area is a grassy hill where the area dogs get to enjoy chasing balls, and during these last few beautiful days you’ll always find people in swimsuits sitting on blankets, enjoying an afternoon in the sun or just a few minutes during their lunchtime. The Royal Palace and it’s alluring grassy grounds are also for the people to wander and sunbathe and enjoy fully. This country really knows how to pack relaxation into every beautiful moment!!

So speaking of relaxation: Otto’s.

Ottos

In the bottom of the many blocks of the area apartment buildings are neighborhood cafes, fresh fruit and vegetable markets, cozy bars, and small grocery stores. In the corner of Jan’s buildings is Otto’s, named for the owner’s bulldog. When his owners bring him, he sits near the front door, greeting those patrons he feels are worthy of his attention (here’s a “Cindi is really missing her dog MacKenzie” happy moment – Otto not only greeted me the first time I met him, he got his bulky body up to lean against me. 🙂 )

Otto has also been immortalized in the ceiling artwork.

Ottos

As with all proper bars and cafes and restaurants that I have visited and seen here, Otto’s has a delightful outside sitting area.

Ottos

Today’s visit had us pulling the overhead awning to its full length, as the afternoon sun was very intense. Jan and I enjoyed a drink while sitting and watching the world walk by. We said hello to a couple of his neighbors, he told me a little more about the history of this area, and we enjoyed spending a couple of hours experiencing the day, with the elm tree seeds choreographing the wind and the people of the area hurrying – or strolling – by on their way to their own relaxation after a work day.

A wonderful afternoon.

typical Norwegian afternoon

The bars do not serve food. We got the munchies, and so I went into the market just next door and bought a package of cashews. Fresh, delicious, the perfect compliment to our afternoon.

typical Norwegian market

And on our way back to the apartment, we stopped at the market to buy the ingredients for a simple Norwegian meal – sausage, mashed potatoes, and cabbage.

It was a tiring and perfect day. Otto thought so too.

Otto

music!

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One of the reasons we visited the Bergen area when we did is to attend several concerts of the Bergen International Music Festival, held there annually since 1953. It was an amazing experience. A few thoughts:


Sunday, May 28:
My first concert; music of Ole Bull and his contemporaries, performed on period instruments at Ole Bull’s home on Osterøy (which is only a ten minute drive from Kari and Henry’s home). It was an intimate gathering of perhaps fifty people. I sat surrounded by his instruments, paintings, photos, home furnishings, all within touching distance and all safe because the people respect the value of these instruments and collectibles and only use their eyes to examine.

I was lost in the music. For the first time, I heard a live performance on the Hardingfele and Harmonium. A solo that I have taught students over the years was presented with variations. The ensemble between the soloist and accompanist was excellent.

Jan and I were seated against a wall on a period-style couch – or maybe it was an original? I looked across the other concert-goers in their chairs, through the window opposite my seat, and saw the mountains and trees and colors of Norway with a light rain blurring the depth and dimension of the landscape. It was my first experience with Norwegian music in a Norwegian setting, and I was captivated.

Friday, June 2:
Sibelius! You haven’t lived until you have heard a Finnish Orchestra play a couple of Sibelius symphonies … and then as an encore present “Finlandia”. It was my first concert in the acoustically brilliant Grieghallen (Grieg Hall) in Bergen. The orchestra, The Finnish Radio Symphony Orchestra, was wonderful. The principal flute in the first half had a beautiful tone, projecting and blending and colorful, and so perfect to the sound of the orchestra. I really enjoyed her playing, and was disappointed an orchestral member list wasn’t in the program so that I could get her name. The associate principal took over for the second half, and although her tone was big, it lacked the color and projection and maturity of the principal. It didn’t detract too much, but as a flutist of course I noticed it!

But “Finlandia” … suddenly I didn’t care about individual musician’s sounds. This is music that is as much a part of the heart and soul of a Finnish orchestra as Sousa’s “Stars and Stripes” is to a military band in the U.S. The collective and satisfying intake of air when audience members recognized that first chord summed up my feelings exactly. And as the first few notes sounded I couldn’t stop the tears, it was so moving.

Monday, June 5:
Closing concert time for the Festival, so it had to be a big one. And I wasn’t disappointed; it was another that, as a musician myself, I hadn’t really lived until I heard.

Of course I knew to expect Grieg, as we were in his country – his CITY – and national pride is evident in ways I have never experienced in the U.S. when speaking of our composers. For a foreigner, a trip to an orchestral concert in Norway must include him, and the tradition for the Bergen International Festival is that the Grieg “Concerto for Piano and Orchestra in a minor” must be performed.

But this was also a musical experience unlike any other I have had.

The Belgium orchestra in the concert, Anima Eterna Symphony Orchestra, is a small orchestra that (quoting the program notes) “has worked exclusively with historically appropriate instruments, including those required for 19th century repertoire.” Meaning, since the concert featured works by Liszt, Tchaikovsky, and Grieg, all instruments were from the 19th century and Jan and I heard the concert as the concert-goers of these composers heard them (well, except for that acoustically astounding Grieghallen venue we were in again; people in the late 1800’s didn’t have that!)

The Liszt was a symphonic poem, “Les Preludes”, and was a pleasant introduction to the sounds to be expected for the night. But I was so eager for the Tchaikovsky “Symphony No 4 in f minor” (one of my all-time favorite symphonies) that I, honestly, had a hard time concentrating during the Liszt.

And what a performance the Tchaikovsky was! I have to admit to being a little disappointed at first; this is huge Russian music and my ears wanted a huge Russian sound. But the Anima Eterna Symphony presented an energetic performance and the dynamic control and balance was remarkable, and as I adjusted to the different volume I really “got into” the performance. The piccoloist knocked me out of my seat; his articulation and intonation on that older instrument were spectacular. The principal woodwinds had a few intonation issues as the symphony progressed, but nothing truly distracting. The ensemble effect of the strings during the pizzicato movement was amazing. But the “happy place” sound I took away from that performance were the French Horns. They were absolutely astounding.

The entire performance, and especially the last movement, was another “teary-eyed” moment for me, and audience members sitting around us were also discreetly tapping fingers and feet in unison with mine as the last movement ended.

And then, after a brief intermission, we were treated to the Grieg with the orchestra accompanying Rian de Waal on an historic piano. How the musicians coaxed such sounds out of their period instruments – the piano sounded so warm and projected so clearly – they made it sound too easy. I don’t know enough about the piano or its history to comment accurately, but I do know enough about music to say how enjoyable it was. Jan was truly moved by the performance of his nation’s favorite son, and that is hard to do when you have lived with Grieg’s music and legacy (and grew up fifty meters from Grieg’s boyhood home) for your entire life.

the people of Norway

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Before visiting this beautiful country, I had heard of the “reserve” of the typical Norwegian. One of the books I had read described an experience of a British woman, married to a Norwegian for twenty years and living in Norway. For those twenty years her neighbor never seemed to notice her. And then one day the neighbor came over to her home; he’d locked himself out of his house and needed to use her phone. After that their relationship progressed … in that he now might wave to her if they were outside at the same time. Perhaps in another twenty years he might say hello with his wave?!

Although Jan had told me about his loved sister (who is nine years older than Jan) and her family, and how friendly and welcoming they would be to me, I didn’t know what to expect when we visited and stayed with them for two weeks. His description compared to my expectations didn’t match.

And of course, Jan was right.

Kari and Henry have a comfortable home, gentle demeanor, welcoming manner, curious and insightful questions, and a warmth about them that speaks of over forty years of love together. Their four children are grown, but they are close to their parents and three came to visit while we were there. Everyone spoke English (although I enjoyed when the family animatedly spoke together in their language). One son lives with his son on top of a mountain nearby. Another, with his wife and two young children, is restoring an 1860’s home overlooking one of the fjords – also nearby. Their daughter lives in Bergen and is finishing her PhD (in English) at the University there. And their youngest son lives in Illinois with his wife, where he is also finishing his PhD (in Palaeontology) at the University of Chicago.

Their daughter also plays flute, and we enjoyed an afternoon of playing through duets with much laughter and camaraderie, and then gave an impromptu performance for the family.

Their oldest grandson is 12 years old. He rides his bike down the long mountain road to school … and then UP that steep mountain road back home in the afternoon. His English is excellent – so good in fact, that he helps to teach it to the younger students in his Montessori school. He and I spent a few hours together playing the Norwegian version of Monopoly, and reading through the Norwegian translation of Calvin and Hobbs. Such fun! And, he caught a trout in the lake twenty steps from the house, and fried it for me to try. Delicious!!

Kari joined Jan and me in a couple of visits into Bergen. The most insightful time for me was when we visited the areas where they grew up. They had not visited there in fourteen years. Seeing it would have been interesting enough, but to listen to them talk about their shared memories really brought it alive to me. Their first home was in an old German Barracks, torn down a long time ago now. We stopped by a small overgrown area, and they shared that it had been their garden (yard). Jan has a picture of himself there, wearing Kari’s rubber boots and nothing else – of course, that was when he was very young!! – “watering” the yard. 🙂 They shared a few of their experiences at their school and with the surrounding children; living where they did brought a certain stigma. There is no way my American middle class upbringing can fully understand the life and surroundings and experiences they had, but listening to them talk gave me a little insight and helped me understand the deep feelings between them now as adults.

In shops and restaurants and in meeting Jan’s friends, my experiences with other people here have been of the same warmth and friendliness. Although English is spoken and understand by just about everyone, I am eager to learn more of the Norwegian language so that I can absorb even more of the culture.

a trip over and under the mountains

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I am in Norway for my first visit! And so begins my blog, to share my first impressions of the country, and continue with my experiences when I move here.

I thought I’d share a few written impressions of our trip from Oslo towards the West Coast of Norway. Destination: Osterøy, the largest inland Island (it is surrounded by fjords) and about 26 miles from Bergen.

The trip took us from the “hills” around Oslo to the mountains of Western Norway, past beautiful scenery into even more beautiful land. There are so many shades of green in this country, I do not think there are enough descriptive adjectives.

The major roads in Norway are good; the drivers are considerate and very careful. When compared to any road I have been on in the U.S., traffic is nonexistent outside of Oslo. The major roads we traveled on are two-lane only (although the real mountain roads are another story!); how accidents don’t happen as drivers get distracted by the passing scenery I don’t know! I imagine you get used to it, but I hope I never take it for granted.

Ascending gradually into the mountains Jan showed me our route on the map, but I quickly didn’t really care to follow that as the one-dimensional paper couldn’t show the real drive, and who cares about paper anyway when the rocks and boulders and different trees and farms and barns and sheep and homes and people and … and … and … are so much more interesting. It was partly cloudy as we left Oslo, but after a few hours on the road we could see the rain/fog clinging to the tops of the mountains. And that was where we were headed.

May 2006 - trip from Oslo to Bergen

The temperatures dropped, the rain turned to sleet, then snow. Views of the mountains were gone, but the beauty of the weather (the direction of the wind-blown falling snow, the winter-bare trees where just a few kilometers below the color of spring flowers and trees had filled my eyes) was stark and wild, yet peaceful. Winter really is my favorite season!

The trip down this mountain was spectacular, and I do not mean in the bright, sunshine-filled photos of Norway mountains that I have seen. The drive was a little cautious, a little slippery. The road was very narrow, my first introduction to true mountain roads. As we descended the snow turned back to rain. I looked up from the the car and could see those foggy clouds we had just been in. They were clinging to the sides of the mountain. Above them I could see the mountain top, bare and winter-bleak. Below the fog to where we were, muted green trees and shrubs in grateful early spring bloom were part of the scenery. It was all a little gray, a little drizzly, a little subdued. And it was all majestically beautiful.

I quickly learned how necessary tunnels are to navigate the mountains in Norway. Jan wanted to take me across two of the mountains between Oslo and Bergen, as the view from the top of the second was spectacular and would give me an introduction to the true West Coast of Norway. But after the weather conditions of that first “smaller” one he decided to not risk the next mountain. And so he took me through the longest tunnel in the world instead, 24.5 kilometers long (a little over 15 miles). That is an experience in itself for my semi-claustrophobic self, knowing we are under tons of rock and dirt and massive MOUNTAIN.

Just before entering that tunnel we stopped in Lærdal for dinner. But first Jan took me to a sandy area there, and in the drizzly rain had me bend down and put my fingers in the water. Here, he said, is the ocean.

May 2006 - fjord at Lærdal

Miles inland, the Sognefjord brought us the ocean. It is almost more that my East Coast Maryland brain can comprehend! 🙂

We encountered a travel problem about an hour from Osterøy. A major tunnel was closed for road work through the night; we could go through the tunnel in a caravan but that would mean waiting several hours until about 1:00 am when the road crews escorted waiting cars through. But Jan knows the mountains, understands the roads, and off we went on a narrow strip of paved path that bypassed the major E16 route between Oslo and Bergen and the tunnel system that was under construction. Without experiencing THAT trip yourself, it is really difficult to share it with you! Narrow roads that fit one car, zig-zagging up and down and around and under and through rocks and gulleys and the mountainside … we didn’t meet a car traveling in the opposite direction but if we had there was no room to pass on stretches of the road. It was an “experience” and one I will adjust to … I hope … eventually! 🙂

And then, just after the late-May southern Norwegian summer sun set about 11:30 pm, we crossed the bridge onto Osterøy. I’ll post my thoughts on our time there soon, but it’s enough to say that my experiences there were of warmth and acceptance and genuine interest.

I am falling in love with this beautiful country, and the Norwegian people!! I am so excited to move here and begin my new life.